Simone Pedeferri has freed Dream of love 8c at Grotta del Ferro, Val di Mello, Italy.


All pics in this article are by RIKY FELDERER

Simone Pedeferri is tireless: after the immense work of discovering new boulders on the valley floor for the Melloblocco, this summer the member of the Ragni di Lecco climbing club returned to Grotta del Ferro situated above Val di Mello to further develop this beautiful – and extremely difficult – crag. The result is Peace and Love, an intense extension to Dream of Love which now, with a total of 80 moves, leads to the end of the roof.

On the Ragni di Lecco website Pedeferri described his latest creation as follows:
“A belay marks the finish of a route but, at times, it can also represent the start of a new project. Sei debole, Green day and Dream of love all have a logical finish but I hadn’t reached the end of the roof and those few metres which led to the end seemed very difficult, wet and dirty.

I was certain that that section would never come into condition… 2 years later though I had to think again as the particularly warm and dry season had stopped the cave from seeping and some holds appeared from beneath the brushed moss. These created a really beautiful and demanding 12-move boulder to the end of the roof. I linked it with Dream of love to create an 80 move outing called Peace and love which certainly makes for a spectacular horizontal journey somewhere in the region of 8c.”


Sei debole 8a
Quarta dimensione 8a
Stairway to heaven 8b
Dream of love 8b
Old man yump 8b
Free ascents 8b+ (half the route is bolted, the rest needs protecting with Friends)
Porno valley 8c
Peace and love 8c
Green day 8c+
Some routes share the same start and some cross others. The routes vary in height between 35m – 45m. The cave was bolted over a three-year period by Simone Pedeferri, Davide Spini, Mirco Mase, Francesco Piovesan and Luca Schiera. The grotto is located close to the second del Ferro waterfall and is reached by walking up the main road through Val di Mello and then breaking off left, when you reach the first waterfall, to then ascend up through the ancient beech forest for circa one hour and past the second spectacular drop.