LA PIETRA DEL SUD, the Ragni di Lecco project from a Fabio Palma’ proposal, has supported many new amazing crags in South of Italy. Here the Salento description
Davide Schiantarelli presents the result of 10 days of work for the Salento Vertical project that resulted in a flurry of new climbs in the area between Ponte Ciolo and Santa Maria di Leuca in Southern Italy.
Ten days of continuous work on the cliffs in the Salento region of Southern Italy have resulted in the first shining bolts; numerous new routes, 2 new areas still to be fully developed and a host of existing routes almost completely rebolted at Canyon del Ciolo.
Rock, sea, sun, ancient cultures, deeply rooted traditions and people who are amazingly attentive to anything that is news. The project Salento Vertical, after this first bolting session, has finally resulted in Salento being able to offer safe sports climbing for everyone to enjoy.
A big thank you to my friend Giovanni Ongaro and his very French girlfriend Stephanie Frigiere, to my new love Cristiano Ticci and my rival (in love only) Lisa Pellegrini, to Fabio Palma and Luca Passini, two incredible and impeccable Ragni di Lecco route setters, to Versante Sudand their important climbing project “Book for Bolts” and to the local and indispensable climber Elio Settembrini whose expertise and infinite patience makes everything feasible. And thanks also to Marco “Pandi” Pandocchi who apart from one evening (due to the Negroamaro concert) offered his tireless support, as did our Tiggiano friends and supporters. Simply fantastic, many thanks mayor!
Definitely not for everyone, this incredibly beautiful crag with comfortable base is located 50 meters above the sea and close to giant cave and. With deep limestone pockets and large tufas, this 35m overhang will certainly be appreciated by the “stronger” climbers.
Orientation: East – receives the shade from 11.30
Access: Partendo Da Ponte Ciolo in direzione S.M.Leuca parcheggiare sulla strada in prossimità del cartello Km 47. Al termine del muretto in pietra scende in direzione mare il sentiero ben visibile segnalato da bolli rossi. Il settore si trova, scendendo, seguendo il sentiero in direzione sinistra fino alla visibile grotta. Ultimo tratto del sentiero esposto sono state attrezzate corde fisse a spit. (10 min, dalla strada).
1. Turcinieddu – 20m – 7a+
2. Lu sule lu mare lu Jentu – 35m – 7b
3. Pizzi e Sineddhre – 35m – 7c
4. La Pietra del Sud – 32m – 8a (shares finish with #7 )
5. Scapece – 20m – 7c+ (shares finish with #7 )
6. La Mannuta – 25m – NL (variantion finish to Due di Cuori)
7. Due di Cuori – 35m – 7c
8. Primitivo – 35m – 7b+/7c
9. Negroamaro – 25m – 7b
10. (to be completed)
Anga della Mannuta
A beautiful vertical face with 35m stamina climbs, this reddish yellow limestone wall is comprised of small pockets on the first half, then more technical crimp and pocket climbing on the second half. A spectacular panorama over the sea and comfortable base to belay from.
Orientation: East – receives the shade from 11.30
Access: Partendo Da Ponte Ciolo in direzione S.M.Leuca parcheggiare sulla strada in prossimità del cartello Km 47. Al termine del muretto in pietra scende in direzione mare il sentiero ben visibile segnalato da bolli rossi. Il settore si trova, scendendo, seguendo il sentiero in direzione destra fino alla visibile parete verticale. (10 min, dalla strada).
1. En garde – 30m – 6a+
2. Beat – 30m – 6b+
3. Aglio selvaggio – 25m – 6c
4. Papuscia – 35m – 7a
5. Cuccuvascia – 35m – 6c+
6. Il cannone- 35m – 7b
7. Cicala – 35m – 6b
8. Tarantula- 25m – 6a
Canyon del Ciolo
Ciolo stands out for its natural beauty, its ease of access and proximity to the beach. The routes vary in difficulty, the routes climb limestone crimps and pockets and are somewhat bouldery at times.
Orientation: East – receives the shade from 13.00
Access: From Ponte Ciolo take the path down to the beach and scramble up the canyon, the sector immediately springs into view (5 min.)
Settore Paretone Superiore
All existing routes were rebolted
1. Banzai – 6b (rebolted)
2. Gunny Boot – 6b+ (belay replaced)
3. Deepwater – 5c+
4. Smirto – 5b
5. Settebello – 4b
6. Si Ally by Bridge – 5C (rebolted)
7. Varattite – 6a (route bolted thanks to the support of Ippazio Antonio Morciano di Tiggiano)
8. Sousprise – 6a+ (rebolted)
9. Aspirin – 6a+ (rebolted)
10. Alligator – 7a (rebolted)
11. Thai Garden – 6b+ (rebolted)
12. Panettone – 6a (rebolted)
13. EmmAlex – 5c (route bolted thanks to the support of Ippazio Antonio Morciano di Tiggiano)
14. Vota Antonio!!! – 5c
15. Senza Nome – 5b (rebolted)
16. Davandi e Diedro (diretta) – 5c
17. Davandi e Diedro (variante boulder) – 5c+
18. ‘U Rizzu – 5b (route bolted thanks to the support of Antonio Rizzu di Tiggiano)
19. ElioInox – 6a
Settore Paretone Inferiore
On routes 10 to 15 the belays and bolts have deteriorated and are not safe, they will be rebolted thanks to the projectSalento Verticale as soon as possible.
1. La Fessura – 25m – 6a (rebolted)
2. First Meridian (Variante di partenza diretta della fessura) – 25m – 6b+ (rebolted)
3. Swiss Gift – 25m – 6c+ (rebolted)
4. Big Gim – 25m – 6a+
5. Dritto pé dritto – 25m – 6b+ (rebolted)
6. 19:07, Zanzareee! – 30m – 7b+
7. Cannes – 25m – 7b ?? (rebolted)
8. Via Latina – 30m – 6c (rebolted)
9. FREEseddra – 30m – 6b
10. Senza Nome – 6a+
11. Antonio il Grande – 6c+
12. Fico Ninja – L1 5a+, L2 6a+
13. Aldente ma non troppo – L1 6a+, L2 6a+
14. Barbaha – L1 6a+, L2 6c
15. Roten Zolen – 6a/b
NB: BELAYS WITHOUT LOWER OFF CARABINER. TAKE A SCREWGATE CARABINER AND ALL NECESSARY GEAR TO LOWER OFF FROM THE BELAYS